I used to be a model and the AI future I forecasted is here

H&M introduces AI models

Earlier this month, H&M made headlines by announcing their latest campaign featured both human and AI-generated fashion models. These weren't just random digital faces; they were digital twins of real human models.

Image source: BoF

Technically, that's the more ethical route to take right now. But I believe this is just a glimpse of what’s coming. Today, I want to share my honest take on what I think this campaign really represents and where I see things heading – drawing on my past life in the industry and my current work in foresight.

I spent several years working as a fashion model before transitioning full-time into the world of strategic foresight. I was lucky enough to grace the pages of glossy magazines like Vogue and Cosmopolitan and star in campaigns for brands such as Salvatore Ferragamo and DKNY. My path into the industry was unconventional – I only started modeling after finishing my degrees and a brief stint as a management consultant. Despite that, it became a profession I really enjoyed, one where I learned a lot about myself and my creative capacity. It also served as the springboard for my journey as an entrepreneur.

But the strategist in me never switched off. I kept tracking emerging technologies and their potential to disrupt society and business. After stumbling across a 2019 research paper by the German e-commerce giant Zalando—a company I had actually modeled for—on using generative adversarial networks (GANs) to create fashion models, it smacked me right in the face: AI was coming for my job.

Fast forward to 2020, and I wrote an op-ed for Vogue titled, “I am a model and I know that artificial intelligence will eventually take my job.” In it, I discussed the rapid advances in AI, the rise of digital avatars whose creators were already pulling in tens of thousands in brand deals, the ethical minefield of generating "diversity" with AI, and the potential for models to create digital twins as assets. I concluded then, as I do now, that models would have to “prepare for a changing workforce just like everyone else.”

Now, it feels like that moment has truly arrived.

Even though H&M used digital twins of real humans – the ethical and just approach for now – I suspect this is their way of testing the waters. They're getting the public used to seeing AI-generated content woven into their campaigns. Eventually, we get so accustomed to it we stop asking whether there's a real human model being compensated for their likeness, for the hundreds (even thousands) of hours they dedicated to honing a craft that now powers the very AI engines competing for their livelihoods.

Let me be clear: I don’t have any inside knowledge of H&M’s actual plans. But I think it’s unrealistic and naive to assume fashion companies will stop their AI experimentation at digital twins. Companies are viewing the drive to automate as much of the supply chain as possible as a strategic necessity. Clinging to the hope that they won't go further does models more harm, I believe, than doing the harder work: grappling with the possibilities ahead, deciding if they align with the best interests of society, and acting accordingly.

AI Fashion Models: The Upside

As I mentioned back in my 2020 Vogue piece, there are potential benefits.

• Sustainability: "Digital models drastically reduce the environmental footprint associated with photoshoots and bringing clothes to market. It’s not uncommon for a model to shoot over 50 outfits in a single day for an e-commerce shoot, and many of those samples end up in landfills.” Yes, AI systems have their own carbon footprint, but a quick back-of-the-envelope calculation likely shows AI generation coming out ahead on net emissions.

• Efficiency & Accessibility: "An argument can also be made for efficiency and cost-effectiveness. Digital models can work on multiple 'shoots' simultaneously, requiring a significantly smaller team." This could democratize fashion creation, allowing emerging designers without big budgets or new kinds of digital artists to bring their fashion visions to life.

• Radical Inclusivity: Imagine the possibility for true inclusivity – not the illusionary AI-generated representation, but the chance to literally see yourself in the clothes. If algorithms were fed enough (ethically sourced) data about us as individuals, "they could generate content featuring us, each one of us, as models,” as I shared in 2020.

AI Fashion Models: The Downside

The fashion industry has long operated within an infrastructure prone to exploitation – from overseas manufacturing plants to the lack of protections for models themselves.

• Exploitation & Consent: Despite modeling being quite structurally similar to acting, fashion models in most countries (including the US, though the Fashion Workers Act taking effect this June offers more protection) aren't typically allowed to unionize. When Hollywood actors went on strike two years ago, with AI being a core concern, fashion models were largely left out of the conversation. Yet, AI systems are being trained on the likeness and labor of hundreds of thousands of models. Has anyone truly addressed the question of their consent? Even creating digital twins improves the underlying technology that ultimately enables automation.

• The Illusion of Diversity: AI models create new avenues for exploitation and misrepresentation through performative diversity. Brands could potentially create avatars representing identities and experiences no one on their team has lived through, speaking for those communities without genuine understanding or connection. This isn't to say AI characters must look exactly like their creators, but it raises urgent questions about representation, appropriation, and harm. Imagine a brand creating an AI representing a community historically wronged by that brand, or misrepresenting a community in a way that further marginalizes actual people, all while profiting from their likeness without benefiting anyone from that community. Society needs to figure out where we draw new cultural lines in an AI-generated world. I don't have the answers.

• Automation & Job Displacement: AI-generated fashion models could displace tens of thousands of jobs. Photoshoots are collaborative efforts involving creative directors, stylists, hair and makeup artists, photographers, assistants, and the models themselves. While some new roles will emerge (perhaps AI-first creative directors or prompt engineers specializing in fashion), many traditional roles face obsolescence. This phenomenon isn't unique to modeling – I've written extensively about the broader workforce disruption AI brings. But we still have to grapple with the consequences.

The Number One Question I Get Asked About AI Models: Will they actually stick?

Right now, the tech is pretty good for basic e-commerce – think the product pages you scroll through on sites like H&M or Zara. It still has a little way to go for the more artistic, high-fashion editorial shoots you see in magazines. The lighting, the nuance, the expressions, the unexpected moments of humanity are harder to replicate perfectly... for now.

But my philosophy has always been: never say “AI will never be able to do X.” History usually proves that statement wrong, and it hinders proactive preparation.

Perhaps the biggest factor isn't just the tech, but public acceptance. Even if AI models become technically indistinguishable from humans, will people want to buy clothes promoted by, essentially, counterfeit humans? I'm not sure. Personally, I'd have a hard time adding a skincare product to my cart based on an AI avatar claiming it "transformed their skin." Then again, it’s quite possible we’ve already scrolled past AI models online without even realizing it.

Could 'featuring real humans' eventually become a powerful differentiator? Maybe. It's plausible we'll see brands actively market their use of human models as a sign of authenticity, ethical commitment, or even a luxury.

Beyond the Obvious:

I think the bigger question involves the convergence of AI, wearables, and shifting human behavior. What happens in a world with sophisticated AI assistants and agents curating our shopping experiences before we even consciously browse? As we potentially move away from constantly staring at screens (the inevitable decline of smartphones towards more ambient, wearable tech), how does fashion discovery change? It's possible the industry transforms in ways we can barely imagine, where the visual representation of a model – human or AI – becomes less central than it is today. That’s the kind of deeper disruption foresight demands we consider.

My advice to models:

So, what can models do? First and foremost, secure full ownership of your digital likeness in every contract – critically, don't grant these permissions to your agency or clients. Focus on amplifying your uniquely human story: continue building your personal brand—a skill models excel at—strengthening your community(!), sharing your interests, and leaning into differentiation. While it’s hard to predict exactly who or what will hold influence in the future, models already have visibility; leverage that platform strategically. Finally, cultivate adaptability and creative intelligence – skills essential for everyone.

The world of work is changing for all of us. The best thing we can do is prepare for it.